To be confirmed: whether members supply their own filament and laser stock or the shop provides some, and how members send jobs to the printers. See also **Facility Operations: Consumables**.
## Learning to design New to 3D design? The **Fusion 360 Basics** class walks you through your first model. The class outline and handout are in **Classes and Instructors: Fusion 360 Basics**, and the cheat sheet is in this book. ## Area ChampionTo be confirmed: who the Digital Fabrication Area Champion is and how to reach them. See **Volunteer Runbooks: Area Champions** for what Area Champions do.
# Fusion 360 Cheat Sheet A quick reference for designing parts in Autodesk Fusion 360. This is the handout from the **Fusion 360 Basics** class; see **Classes and Instructors: Fusion 360 Basics** for the class itself. ## The core workflow This is the process you will repeat for almost everything you build: 1. **Sketch** a 2D shape on a plane or face. 2. **Extrude** it into 3D (add material). 3. **Sketch** on a face of your 3D object. 4. **Cut** to remove material (extrude inward). 5. **Fillet** to round edges and finish. 6. Repeat steps 3 to 5 to add detail. ## Keyboard shortcuts | Shortcut | Action | |---|---| | **S** | Search bar (find any tool by name) | | **L** | Line | | **C** | Circle | | **R** | Rectangle | | **D** | Sketch Dimension | | **E** | Extrude | | **F** | Fillet | | **Q** | Push/Pull | | **M** | Move/Copy | | **Ctrl+Z / Cmd+Z** | Undo | **Tip:** press **S** and type the name of any tool. It is the fastest way to find anything. ## Mouse navigation | Action | Control | |---|---| | **Orbit** | Middle mouse button | | **Pan** | Shift + middle mouse button | | **Zoom** | Scroll wheel | | **Reset view** | Click the house icon on the view cube (top right) | ## Practice project: phone stand The class project. Dimensions are included so you can rebuild it at home. ### Step 1: Base 1. **Create Sketch** on the XZ plane (the floor). 2. Draw a **Rectangle**: 70 mm x 80 mm. 3. **Finish Sketch**. 4. **Extrude** (Symmetric): 10 mm. ### Step 2: Back support 1. **Create Sketch** on the back face (the 70 mm x 10 mm face). 2. Draw a **Rectangle** from the top-left corner: 70 mm wide x 60 mm tall. 3. **Finish Sketch**. 4. **Extrude**: 10 mm (away from the base). ### Step 3: Phone slot 1. **Create Sketch** on the top face of the base. 2. Draw a **Rectangle**: 50 mm x 4 mm, positioned 5 mm from the back wall. 3. **Finish Sketch**. 4. **Extrude** as **Cut**: -8 mm (leaves a 2 mm floor). ### Step 4: Fillet 1. Select **Fillet** (or press **F**). 2. Click the top edges of the back support; radius **5 mm**. 3. Optionally fillet the bottom edges of the base: **3 mm**. ### Dimensions reference | Feature | Size | |---|---| | Base | 70 x 80 x 10 mm | | Back support | 70 x 60 x 10 mm | | Phone slot | 50 x 4 mm, 8 mm deep cut | | Fillets | 5 mm (top), 3 mm (bottom) | ## Stuck? Check here first | Problem | Fix | |---|---| | Can't see my sketch | Click the **Home** icon on the view cube | | Extrude is grayed out | Click **Finish Sketch** first | | Extrude didn't cut | Undo, redo the extrude, and change Operation to **Cut** | | Sketch lines are still blue | Add dimensions to fully constrain the sketch (it still works if you don't) | | Can't select a face | Zoom in and hover until the *face* highlights, not an edge | | Model disappeared | Check the eye icons in the Browser panel (left side) | ## What to learn next 1. **Components:** organizing multi-part models. 2. **User Parameters:** named variables for dimensions. 3. **Patterns:** repeating features in circles or grids. 4. **STL Export:** File, Export, STL, so you can 3D print your design. ## Resources - **Product Design Online** (YouTube): beginner-friendly Fusion 360 tutorials. - **r/Fusion360**: a Reddit community for questions and inspiration. - **The makerspace:** come in and practice, and ask in #general on Discord if you get stuck. # Equipment SOPs One page per tool. Reading an SOP does not replace training or certification. # Laser CutterReading this page does not replace training. You must be checked off on this tool before using it.
The laser cuts and engraves sheet materials using a focused beam. It is self-serve once you have been trained.To be confirmed: the full operating procedure (model, startup, focusing, job setup, ventilation, shutdown). Only the rules below are sourced so far. The machine's details are in Atlas: https://atlas.waukeshamakers.com.
## Certification required Yes. See **Training and Certification: How Certification Works**. ## The rule posted on the machine **Never leave the laser unattended while it is running.** Stay with the machine for the whole job, watching it, not just in the room. Lasers can set the material on fire, and a small flare-up becomes a real fire within seconds when nobody is watching. If you need to step away, pause or stop the job first. ## Before you start - Do the general checks in **Training and Certification: Pre-Use Inspection**. - **Check your material.** Only cut materials on the approved list, and never cut anything you cannot identify. See **Digital Fabrication: Laser-Safe and Prohibited Materials**. - Make sure the exhaust or filtration is running. See **Shop Safety: Air Quality**. - Know where the nearest fire extinguisher is. See **Shop Safety: Fire Safety and Hot Work**. - Clear scraps and leftover pieces out of the bed. ## While it runs - Watch for flames. A brief flicker at the cut point can be normal; sustained flame is not. Stop the job if flames persist. - Do not open the lid or defeat any interlock while the laser is firing. ## When you are done - Wait for the smoke to clear before opening the lid. - Remove your parts and all scraps from the bed. Small scraps left behind are a fire hazard for the next job. - Report any problem; see **Shop Safety: Tagging a Tool Out of Service and Reporting It**. # Maintenance Routine maintenance procedures and checklists. # Prusa MK4 Maintenance Regular maintenance checklist for the **Original Prusa MK4** (Nextruder). It follows Prusa's own guide: [Regular printer maintenance (MK4/S, MK3.9/S)](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/regular-printer-maintenance-mk4-s-mk3-9-s_419000). ## How often | Interval | What | |---|---| | Before every print | Some items; see Prusa's guide linked above | | Every 200 print hours | Axes (rods and bearings), belts, fans and the Nextruder (sections 2 to 8) | | Yearly, or every 600 to 800 print hours | Electronics check (section 9) | ## Supplies - Prusa Lubricant ([Prusa Lubricant Applicator Set](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/)) - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and paper towels - Compressed air, small brass brush, tweezers, toothpick - Allen keys, needle-nose pliers - Acetone (Smooth PEI sheet only)Do not lubricate the Z-axis lead screws or trapezoid nuts. Do not open the Nextruder gearbox unless Prusa support asks you to; the primary gear and idler bearings need no lubricant.
## 1. Before you start - Note the print hours and firmware version so they can be logged with the maintenance. - Unload filament. - Clear any maintenance warning on the screen and note what it said ([Maintenance warning reference](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/maintenance-warning-31117-core-one-26117-mk4s-13117-mk4-27117-mk3-9s-21117-mk3-9-28117-mk3-5s-23117-mk3-5_862005)). ## 2. General cleaning and hotend - Brush or vacuum debris from the frame and under the heatbed. - Heat the nozzle to 250 °C for 3 to 5 minutes, then scrub old plastic off with a brass brush. Keep the brush off the hotend cables. - Let it cool for about 10 minutes, and confirm the temperature on the display before touching it. ## 3. Hotend thumb screws and nozzle seating (printer off and cold) - Hand-tighten the hotend thumb screws (no tools). - Confirm the nozzle has **no vertical play** and the heater block **does not rotate**. - If a Nozzle Adapter is installed, confirm the nozzle is not lowered or loose ([Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/installing-or-changing-the-nextruder-v6-nozzle-adapter_823792)). ## 4. Smooth rods and bearings (X, Y, Z) - Roll each rod between your fingers to feel for grooves or scratches. - Wipe each rod clean with a paper towel. - Apply a small amount of Prusa Lubricant and run each axis end to end several times. - Only if an axis still feels rough: remove the bearings, clean them with IPA, and regrease the inside with a small amount of Prusa Lubricant. A printable [LM8UU bearing greasing adaptor](https://www.printables.com/model/32359-prusa-lubricant-lm8uu-adaptor-bearing-pacifier) makes this easier. ## 5. Belts and pulleys - Remove debris around the pulleys and belts. - Confirm each pulley set screw is tight on the **flat** of the motor shaft. - Pluck the X and Y belts: they should give a low bass note. - Measure and adjust tension per [Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380), which covers the frequency method used on the MK4. Note the upper, lower and Y readings. ## 6. Fans - Hold each propeller still and blow it out with compressed air. Never blow air into a running or free-spinning fan. - Remove plastic threads with tweezers. - Never bypass the fan RPM check. A slow fan throws an error on purpose. ## 7. Nextruder (drive gear area) - Lift the idler nut and swing the idler out. - Clear filament dust from the primary gear grooves through the side access hole (compressed air, brass brush or toothpick). - Close the idler and reset the tension. - If extrusion or hotend problems persist, see [Changing or replacing the Nextruder hotend](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nextruder-hotend_768975) and [How to rebuild the Nextruder hotend](https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-rebuild-the-nextruder-hotend_1080488). ## 8. Print sheets - Clean each sheet with IPA; use dish soap and warm water for a deeper clean ([Print surface preparation](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/print-surface-preparation_686951)). - Acetone only on the **Smooth** sheet, never on Textured or Satin. Never use alcohol or acetone on the PA Nylon sheet ([Flexible steel sheets guidepost](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195)). ## 9. Electronics (yearly, or every 600 to 800 hours) - **Power off and unplug** the printer. - Check and reseat the connectors on the xBuddy board, Loveboard, heatbed, PSU and xLCD. - Confirm screw-terminal connectors are fully tight. - For Molex connectors, press the latch before pulling. ## 10. Firmware - Update to the latest stable MK4 firmware if it is behind (download from Prusa's MK4 firmware page; install from a USB drive). ## 11. Recalibrate - Run **Selftest / Calibrations & Tests** from the printer menu. - Run the **Loadcell Test** (**Control > Calibration & Tests > Loadcell Test**). If it fails, see [Loadcell troubleshooting](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-troubleshooting_815397); overtightened Nextruder bolts are a common cause. - Confirm **Input Shaper** is enabled and that the slicer uses the Input Shaper profile ([Input Shaper article](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/input-shaper-core-one-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_451816)). - Print a small test part. The first layer is auto-calibrated by mesh bed leveling through the load cell, so just inspect it. ## Afterwards Record anything you found, what you did about it, and whether follow-up is needed. If the printer is not safe to use, tag it out of service: see **Shop Safety: Tagging a Tool Out of Service and Reporting It**. # Prusa MK3S+ Maintenance Regular maintenance checklist for the **Original Prusa i3 MK3S+**. If there is more than one MK3S+, go through the whole checklist for each printer. It follows Prusa's own guide: [i3 Printer Regular Maintenance](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/i3-printers-regular-maintenance_2072). ## How often | Interval | What | |---|---| | Every couple hundred print hours | Cleaning, axes, belts, extruder, fans, sheets (sections 2 to 7) | | Every 600 to 800 print hours, or at least yearly | Electronics check (section 8) | ## Supplies - Prusa Lubricant ([Prusa Lubricant Applicator Set](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/)). Acceptable alternatives per Prusa: Super Lube synthetic grease, GLEIT-µ HF 400, Mogul LV 2-EP. Avoid very high viscosity grease. - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and paper towels - Compressed air, small brass brush, tweezers, cotton swabs - Allen keys, needle-nose pliers - Acetone (Smooth PEI sheet only)Do not lubricate the Z-axis lead screws or trapezoid nuts. Prusa explicitly warns against this.
## 1. Before you start - Note the print hours from **LCD > Statistics**. - Unload filament. - Note the firmware version under **LCD > Support** (you will compare it in step 10). ## 2. General cleaning - Brush or vacuum filament bits, dust and broken supports from the frame and under the heatbed. - Heat the nozzle and brush off old plastic with a brass brush. Keep the brush off the thermistor and heater wires. ## 3. Smooth rods and bearings (X, Y, Z) - Roll each smooth rod between your fingers and feel for grooves or scratches. Note any damaged rods. - Wipe each rod clean with a dry paper towel. - Apply a thin film of Prusa Lubricant to each rod and run the axis end to end several times ([Prusa maintenance tips guide](https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200)). - If an axis still feels rough, remove the bearings, clean them with IPA, and grease the inside with a pea-sized amount ([bearing maintenance article](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/sVQHD6vtfm-bearings-maintenance)). - Check that the X-carriage-back screws and Y-bearing U-bolts are snug but **not overtightened**. Overtightening deforms the bearings and scratches the rods. ## 4. Belts and pulleys - Clear debris from the belt pulleys and idlers. - Confirm each pulley grub screw is tight against the **flat** of its motor shaft. - Pluck the X and Y belts: they should give a low bass note. - Check **LCD > Support > Belt status**. Target values are **260 to 290**. - Adjust if out of range: [Adjusting belt tension (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, MK3/S/+)](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-mk3-s_112380). ## 5. Extruder (Bondtech gears and idler) - Open the idler door (one screw on the MK3S+). - Cover the PTFE tube entry with a cotton swab, then clean both Bondtech gears with a brass brush, rotating a few degrees at a time through a full turn. Blow out the debris. - Verify the drive gear is aligned with the filament path and its grub screw is tight ([Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/checking-re-aligning-the-bondtech-gear-mk3-5-s-mk3s-mk2-5s_133176)). - Confirm the idler shaft and bearing spin freely. - Optional: a tiny amount of non-oil grease on the **outward-facing gear teeth only**. Keep it off anything that touches filament. - Check idler screw tension: the head should be roughly flush with the extruder plastic ([Idler screw tension](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367)). ## 6. Fans - Hold each propeller still and blow out dust with compressed air. Never spin a fan with air. - Remove plastic strings with tweezers. - Confirm the hotend fan and the print (part cooling) fan both spin freely by hand. ## 7. Print sheets - Clean each steel sheet with IPA; use dish soap and warm water for a deeper clean. - Acetone only on the **Smooth** PEI sheet, never on Textured or Satin ([Flexible steel sheets guidepost](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195)). - Note any sheets with gouges or worn coating. ## 8. Electronics (every 600 to 800 hours, or at least yearly) - **Power off and unplug** the printer. - Inspect cables for pinching, rubbing or worn insulation, especially the heatbed cable bundle. - Blow dust out of the Einsy electronics enclosure. - Gently tug-test the PSU and heatbed power connectors, and retighten any terminal screws that move ([Einsy RAMBo wiring reference](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/einsy-rambo-electronics-wiring-mk3-mk3s-mk3s_2107)). ## 9. Nozzle - Inspect the nozzle for wear (rounded tip, enlarged hole) or damage. - Replace it only if print quality stays poor after everything above ([Changing or replacing the nozzle](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5-s-mk3-s-mk3-5-s_2069)). ## 10. Firmware and slicer - Update to the latest stable MK3S+ firmware if it is behind ([How to update firmware MK3S+](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk3s-mk3s-mk3_2227)). - Confirm the shop computers have a current [PrusaSlicer](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903). ## 11. Recalibrate Prusa recommends recalibrating after maintenance. - Run **Selftest** from **LCD > Calibration** (fans, axes, heaters). - Run **XYZ calibration** if bearings, rods or the frame were disturbed ([XYZ calibration MK3/MK3S](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xyz-calibration-mk3-and-mk3s_112351)). If the nozzle catches the paper, the SuperPINDA may need to be lowered slightly. - Run **First layer calibration** and set Live Z for each sheet in use ([Basic calibration articles](https://help.prusa3d.com/category/basic-calibration_228)). - Print a small test part and inspect the first layer. ## Afterwards Record anything you found, what you did about it, and whether follow-up is needed. If the printer is not safe to use, tag it out of service: see **Shop Safety: Tagging a Tool Out of Service and Reporting It**. # Bambu Lab X1C and AMS Maintenance Maintenance checklist for the **Bambu Lab X1 Carbon** printer and its two filament units, the **AMS 2 Pro** and the original **AMS (Gen 1)**. It follows Bambu Lab's guides: - [Bambu Wiki: X1 Basic Maintenance](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/basic-maintenance) - [Bambu Wiki: AMS Basic Maintenance](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams/maintenance/basic-maintenance) - [Bambu Wiki: AMS 2 Pro hub](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro) - [X1 Series Regular Maintenance Manual (ManualsLib copy)](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/4059891/Bambu-Lab-X1-Series.html) ## How often | Interval | What | |---|---| | Every 3 to 5 days if ABS is printed often | Clean the Micro Lidar window | | Every 2 weeks | Check AMS desiccant and humidity | | Monthly (every 5 rolls if printing ABS/ASA) | Clean carbon rods and re-tension belts | | Every 2 months (monthly with abrasive filaments) | Replace AMS PTFE tubes | | Every 3 months | Grease Z lead screws; replace the activated carbon filter under heavy use | | As needed | Nozzle wiper, nozzle, silicone sock, build plates | ## Supplies - IPA (90% or stronger) and lint-free or microfiber cloths - Grease for the Z lead screws (Bambu suggests Super Lube 92003 or Lucas 10533, or the grease from the Bambu accessory box) - H2.0 hex key and the X1 accessory box tools - Compressed air, brass brush, tweezers - Spare nozzle wiper, spare PTFE tube (4 mm OD), fresh desiccant if availableDo NOT grease the X-axis carbon rods. Grease causes abnormal resistance and makes cleaning harder; the bearings are self-lubricating. Power off and unplug the printer before any mechanical work.
## X1C printer ### 1. Before you start - Unload filament from the AMS units. - Note the firmware versions (printer, AMS 2 Pro, AMS) in Bambu Studio or Bambu Handy. ### 2. General cleaning - Vacuum or brush debris from the chamber floor, bed area and purge chute. - Empty and clean the purge waste bin area. ### 3. Carbon rods and belt tension (do these together) Procedure: [Bambu Wiki: Carbon rods clearance and cleaning](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/carbon-rods-clearance) - Loosen (do not remove) the four belt tensioner screws at the back of the printer. - Press on the belts next to the toolhead and confirm the tensioners move. - Wipe each X-axis carbon rod with IPA on a lint-free cloth. Repeat 2 to 3 times until the cloth comes away clean. - Move the toolhead to the center of the build area and retighten the tensioner screws. This re-tensions the belts. - With the printer off, move the toolhead by hand from corner to corner. Motion should be smooth with no grinding. ### 4. Z-axis lead screws (every 3 months) - Wipe dust and plastic off all three Z lead screws. - With the bed homed (at the top), apply a **thin** coat of grease. - Lower the bed, apply another thin coat, and home again. Repeat a few cycles to spread it. - Wipe off excess grease that builds up near the lead screw nuts. Too little is better than too much. ### 5. Nozzle wiper - Check the wiper for filament debris and a damaged PTFE side. It must sit horizontal. - Replace it if the plastic structure is deformed or cracked, or if it slips ([Bambu nozzle wiper part](https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/nozzle-wiper-x1-p1-series)). ### 6. Hotend and extruder - Heat the nozzle and brush residue off the nozzle and heater block. Inspect the silicone sock and replace it if torn. - Do a cold pull if there are any signs of partial clogging (see the X1 nozzle clog troubleshooting page on the [Bambu Wiki](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1)). - Inspect the nozzle tip for wear, especially if carbon fiber or glow-in-the-dark filaments have been run on the stock nozzle. - Open the extruder idler and brush filament dust from the drive gears. ### 7. Micro Lidar - Clean the Lidar window with IPA on a microfiber cloth. ### 8. Activated carbon filter and fans - Check the carbon filter. Replace it about every 3 months under heavy use ([Bambu Wiki: Replace the activated carbon air filter](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-carbon-filter)). - Blow dust out of the part cooling fan, auxiliary fan and chamber fan. Hold the blades still. ### 9. Build plates - Wash each plate with warm water and dish soap, and dry it fully. - Note any worn or scratched plates. ### 10. Cables and PTFE path - Check the toolhead cable and flat ribbon cable for kinks or wear. - Inspect the PTFE tube from the AMS hub to the toolhead for wear or kinks. ## AMS 2 Pro and AMS (Gen 1) ### 11. PTFE tubes - Inspect all AMS PTFE tubes (slot to hub, and hub to printer) for wear grooves, kinks or loose ends. - Replace them about every 2 months under normal use, or monthly if printing abrasive filaments (carbon fiber, glow-in-the-dark). - Confirm every tube is fully seated in its connector. ### 12. Feeders and filament path - Remove any broken filament pieces from the feeders and hub. Pushing a good, non-brittle piece of filament through the first-stage feeder pushes debris out. - Check the feeding funnels for wear. Replace them if badly worn and causing feed or retract errors. - **AMS 2 Pro:** clean the filament hub per Bambu's hub cleaning guide ([AMS 2 Pro hub](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro)). If a feeder needs replacing: [Replace feeder unit](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro/maintenance/replace-feeder-unit). - **AMS Gen 1:** check that the spool rollers and support shafts spin freely, and clean dust off the rollers. ### 13. Desiccant and humidity - Check the desiccant and humidity indicator in both AMS units. Dry or replace the desiccant as needed. - Confirm the lids seal. ### 14. AMS test - Load one spool in each slot of both units and run a load and unload on every slot. - Run a short multi-material print that pulls from both AMS units. ## 15. Recalibrate the X1C - Power on and run the full **Calibration** from the printer screen (bed leveling, vibration compensation, motor noise cancellation, Micro Lidar). - Update firmware for the printer and both AMS units if they are behind. - Print a small test part and inspect the first layer. ## Afterwards Record anything you found, what you did about it, and whether follow-up is needed. If the printer is not safe to use, tag it out of service: see **Shop Safety: Tagging a Tool Out of Service and Reporting It**. # Anycubic Kobra 2 Max Maintenance Maintenance and troubleshooting checklist for the **Anycubic Kobra 2 Max** (V-wheel gantry, belt tensioner knobs, auto leveling). Sources: - [Anycubic Wiki: Kobra 2 Max Leveling Calibration Guide](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-2-max/kobra-2-max-leveling-calibration-guide) - [Anycubic Wiki: Kobra 2 Series Quick Start Guide](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-2-max/quick-start-guide) - [Anycubic Wiki: Firmware update log](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/home/update-log)History: this checklist was first written to bring this printer back into service, so it starts with a diagnosis step. Use that step whenever the printer is acting up; otherwise follow the routine schedule.
Confirm the model on the label on the back. This page is for the Kobra 2 Max. The older original Kobra Max is mechanically similar but its menus differ; see Anycubic: Kobra Max hot end replacement.
## Routine schedule | Interval | Task | |---|---| | Before each print | Clean the bed; check the nozzle for buildup | | Monthly | Check eccentric nuts and belt tension; clean the V-slots | | Every 3 months | Grease the Z lead screws; clean the extruder gears; blow out the fans | | As needed | Nozzle replacement; firmware updates | ## Supplies - Open-end wrenches (for the eccentric nuts), hex keys - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and paper towels - Light machine grease for the Z lead screws (PTFE-based, for example Super Lube) - Compressed air, brass brush - Spare nozzle (check the fit: Kobra 2 nozzles differ from standard Volcano nozzles), USB drive or SD card for firmware - Known-good PLA ## 1. Diagnose (when something is wrong) - Write down the symptom: will not power on, heater or thermistor error, leveling failure, poor prints, clog. - Power on and note any error message. - Heater or thermistor (NTC) errors usually mean a loose cable or a failed part. Reseat the connectors first (see the troubleshooting section of the [Quick Start Guide](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-2-max/quick-start-guide)). ## 2. Power off, unplug and clean - Remove debris from the frame, bed and V-slot extrusions. - Wipe the V-slot channels so the wheels roll on clean aluminum. ## 3. Frame and fasteners - Check that the gantry uprights are square to the base and all frame bolts are tight. - Shake the print head and the bed by hand to find any wobble. ## 4. V-wheels and eccentric nuts Loose or worn wheels are the most common cause of Kobra problems. - Lower the X-axis module (pull the belt) and check the Z-axis V-wheels for slipping. - For any loose carriage (Z, X print head, Y bed), turn its eccentric nut with an open-end wrench in **small** steps until the wheel just stops spinning freely under your finger, without binding. - Every wheel should touch the extrusion; none should be so tight that it flat-spots. - Look for cracked, flat-spotted or worn wheels and report them for replacement. ## 5. Belts - Inspect the X and Y belts for fraying or missing teeth. - Anycubic's method: turn the X/Y tensioner knob **fully clockwise**, then back it off **two turns** counterclockwise. - Confirm the pulley grub screws are tight on the motor shafts. ## 6. Z-axis lead screws - Wipe the lead screws clean. - Apply a thin coat of light grease, run Z up and down to spread it, and wipe off the excess. - Confirm both Z sides move together, so the gantry stays level. ## 7. Extruder and hotend - Heat the nozzle and brush off old plastic. - Open the extruder and clean filament dust from the drive gears. - Do a cold pull, or replace the nozzle, if extrusion is weak or blocked. - Check the heater cartridge and thermistor wires at the hotend for damage. ## 8. Fans and wiring - Blow out the hotend and part cooling fans. Hold the blades still. - Inspect the print head cable and bed cable for wear at the bend points. - With the printer unplugged, reseat the main board connectors (heater, thermistor, motors, endstops and probe). ## 9. Bed surface - Clean the PEI spring steel sheet with IPA, or dish soap and water if needed. - Clean debris off the bed underside and the magnet surface. ## 10. Firmware - Check the installed version against the [Anycubic update log](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/home/update-log) and the Kobra 2 Max firmware page. Only flash official Kobra 2 Max firmware. ## 11. Calibration Per the [Anycubic leveling calibration guide](https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-2-max/kobra-2-max-leveling-calibration-guide): - **Position calibration:** Tools > Control > Module Calibration > Position Calibration. Jog the nozzle to the center of the calibration module, then save. - **Auto leveling:** Tools > Control > Auto Leveling, with the bed heated. - **Z-offset:** print a first-layer test and adjust the Z-offset until the line is slightly squished. - Print a small test part. ## 12. If it still will not level or print - Re-check the eccentric nuts and belts (sections 4 and 5). Anycubic attributes most leveling problems to loosened parts. - Check the probing and offset switch area for dust (a community-reported fix for the Kobra 2 family; see [Anycubic Kobra 2 leveling issues fix](https://store.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/anycubic-kobra-2-leveling-issues-fix)). - Record the problem. If a part has failed, the printer may need a support ticket with Anycubic. ## Afterwards Record anything you found, what you did about it, and whether follow-up is needed. If the printer is not safe to use, tag it out of service: see **Shop Safety: Tagging a Tool Out of Service and Reporting It**. # Materials Which materials are safe for the laser and other machines, and which are prohibited. # Laser-Safe and Prohibited Materials Some materials are perfectly safe to laser. Others release toxic or corrosive gases, damage the machine, or catch fire easily. **If you cannot identify a material, do not put it in the laser.**To be confirmed: the approved materials list for WMI's laser. What a laser can cut depends on its type and power, so check with a trainer before cutting anything not on that list.
## Never laser these | Material | Why | |---|---| | **PVC and vinyl** (including vinyl sheet, many faux leathers, some foam boards and records) | Releases chlorine gas, which is toxic and corrodes the machine. | | **Anything containing chlorine** | Same reason as PVC. | | **Polycarbonate (Lexan)** | Catches fire and discolors rather than cutting cleanly. | | **ABS** | Melts rather than cuts and gives off harmful fumes. | | **Fiberglass and carbon fiber** | The resins give off harmful fumes. | | **Coated or mirrored materials you cannot identify** | Coatings may contain any of the above. | ## Usually safe, if the machine is set up for it These are commonly laser-cut or engraved. Ask your trainer which ones apply to our machine and what settings to use. - Natural wood and plywood - Paper and cardboard - Cast acrylic - Vegetable-tanned leather - Natural fabrics such as cotton and felt ## Whatever the material - Never leave the laser unattended. See **Digital Fabrication: Laser Cutter**. - Make sure the exhaust or filtration is running. See **Shop Safety: Air Quality**.